The Next Chapter: Cuenca

Captain's log, Day 33: After just under a week of settling into my apartment, taking my first few serious Spanish lessons (ever), learning how to deal with the wild public transportation, and navigating the luscious offerings at the public markets, I have a bit of time to write about my new home for the next six weeks: Cuenca, Ecuador.

But first, a more aerial view of Quito. Bye, Quito and Manna Project!

Cuenca is thought by many Ecuadorians to be the most beautiful city in the country. It's definitely a destination, and has a nice mix of cultures: indigenous Andean heritage, a large number of American and European ex-pats; more foreign ethnicities represented, in general, than other places I've been in Ecuador.

...like the owners of this Indian restaurant near Calle Larga, which runs parallel to one of Cuenca's four rivers, Rio Tomebamba. I really appreciated the fusion elements, like the mint chutney and plum sauce with popcorn, a common appetizer in many restaurants with local fare. Heh.

This is the 10th of August market. I've been a few mornings to buy cups of thick, steaming maiz drinks: mashed white corn and choclo, stewed sometimes with plantains, and always with cinnamon. Good for these cold Andean mornings.

So many fresh fruits, vegetables, grains, and meats. Asking the stand attendants what the fruits, flowers, and vegetables I can't identify taste like or are used for was an adventure.

I take a bus from the Colonial center to the southern limits of the town, where Bioparque Amaru is situated up in the hills.

...and by hills, I mean mountains. Cuenca's center is just over 8,000 feet above sea level, and the zoo is some hundreds of feet higher.

Some of the nation's largest technical colleges and a large university are situated here, as well.

Rio Tomebamba! There's a really nice river walk on either side, bordering the town and all the restaurants, hotels, and markets on Calle Larga.

One of the University's buildings.

With all the Bougainvillea and Eucalyptus around the river and on the surrounding suburban houses, I feel like I could be in the bay area.

Even though Cuenca is fairly conservative, and generally pro-Correa, there's still a lot of environmentally-themed street art.

A shot taken from the parking lot of Bioparque Amaru! Stormy that first day.

This is where I will be working for the next six weeks: the incredible Bioparque Amaru, center for rescued wildlife, public conservation education, and station for biological investigations in the province of Azuay.

The zoo is MASSIVE. I can't believe they've only been open for two years! More on this later. What you should know about this map is that it's misleading: the entire park is built into a steep hillside. It's quite a hike.

A beautiful hike, at that.

At the base of the hill near the zoo, there's a large hospital where I can catch a bus back into town.

...and take pictures out of bus windows of the riverfront and surrounding houses.

The number of people playing in the luxurious and expansive facilities of Parque Paraisio along the Tomebamba were incredible. Because safety laws are a little more lax in Ecuador, they had a number of ziplines in these polished hardwood playgrounds, and some strange circles of swings where people could all sit and talk to one another--or kids could play destructo-swing-war with their legs or added kickballs.

Of course, there was also tons of fùtbol.

The walk home is pretty darn enjoyable, if I do say so myself. Or rather...the walk to spanish class after work. Heh.

I wish I had more time in these internet cafès to talk more about the colonial history and beautiful buildings!

Or the flower market that's always in front of one of the many gorgeous churches.

Meet my home street! I have an apartment on one of the main thoroughfares in Cuenca. Six blocks from the bus stop, fourth floor--with tenants who tend to start their morning salsa music around six, when I am leaving to catch the bus. Great location.

Lively, too, as all South American cities have been in my experience. This is a bad shot of Parque Calderon, the center of the colonial district.

Saint Bernard because Saint Bernards are awesome?

Some more pro-Correa stuff. There are large posters in some of the larger streets below the Tomebamba---closer to the technical colleges.

Gotta say, San Francisco--though dim sum in Chinatown is excellent, I may actually prefer the humitas, chimbolos, and tamales here. Sweet, light cornmeal cakes in heliconia or banana leaves are so delicious.

Finally, to counter the Correa posters one final time, some pro-Yasunì street art.

I have to say, I really do like it here. Renting my first apartment in a foreign country is quite interesting, in mostly wonderful ways. More city adventures to come as friends visit in the coming weeks, but for now, my work will be at Bioparque Amaru. Write later!

Cheers.
-Nikki