Cuencanos y Otras Cosas Cheveres

Captain's Log, Day 57: Five more days to the month mark here in Cuenca. The city is celebrating the 193rd anniversary of its independence tomorrow...nightly music, artesinal fairs, and baked goods everywhere. Two more weeks here with my new friends from the town and the zoo. Last night we spent a wild evening in a Hacienda-converted-to-a-concert-venue called Quinta Lucrecia, traditional music, Club, Abuelo Ron and Zhumir. All day today there have been citywide celebrations of Dia de los Muertos---the flowers covering the cemetery were incredible on my busride into work. The energy in the air seems palpable even from Amaru's eyrie.

I haven't partaken in any colada morada (thick purple drink made with fruits, spices, and purple cornflour that may symbolize blood of passed love ones to some) yet. The city is already wild with the influx of native artists, international and local visitors; the parks are full of carnival setups, families picnicking, and carts of street food. South America is an excellent place to overwhelm all your senses.

All the CUENCAN and Ecuadorian words. For those of you who don't speak Spanish, the differences between countries and regions are dramatic. In Cuenca, they use the diminutive way more than any other place I've ever been--it's considered polite. There are words and phrases that aren't common in other parts of the country, and some that are: bacan and chevere (like tuanis, more or less, for all you Costa Rican veterans), "de ley," chuchaqui (Quechua take on partying bastante, as many people are this weekend),others that I can't exactly remember for cold Andean weather. Everyone in the Oriente (Amazonia) told me that Cuencan culture was song-like, complicated and colorful...from my experiences here, I'd have to agree.

I have realized that it's going to be strange to return to the wintry states and not kiss people as part of a greeting. People are just closer here, in general. Couples and friends arm-in-arm. The emphasis in speech effected through use of reflexives, charged like the facial expressions and intonation...I love it.

Again. Not sure how I'm going to leave.

Here are some internet-generated pictures of the city---half from my camera in the lower part of the post. Somehow my memory card got wiped! Apologies for the paltry photographic offerings.

The city's cemetery. Take this image, and add a garden to every grave---that's how it looked this morning.

I can hear the parades going through Parque Calderon as I write this. The music hasn't stopped all week. Halloween was another night of celebration. My neighbors start their salsa music around six most mornings (which I also love).

Lots of traditional dress and dance for the Independence day celebrations (and the weeks leading up to them).

And ARTISTS. Those of you who know me know I love ceramics. This booth was my favorite.

My walk home a few days back, as the festivals were ramping up. Note all the artists' tents by Rio Tomebamba (only one of the four rivers of Cuenca).

This tree outside a cafe I visit often with friends is so similar to Claremont's late spring Jacaranda trees. So much purple.

Happy hour with Club Verde and friends at Cafe Wunderbar has become one of my favorite things. They also have an excellent selection for foreign book exchanges...

I've become addicted to Granadillas, on a totally unrelated note. I may be surpassing the daily consumption of all the zoo's porcupines combined (they love these).

The music from the streets is calling to me! I think I'm going to call this a wrap and head out. Life is so vivid here.

Cheers, all. 

-Nikki

P.S.-I realized last night that I've never missed a United States Halloween (my favorite holiday) before. Thanks to Shelby, the other zoo volunteer, we had a mini-celebration in the Nutrition Lab Thursday morning. You rock, Shelby!